Surfer King

Surfer King

Sunlight hits peanut butter skin
over muscle mountains
running north south, shoulder to glute
a valley between cradles the spine
which holds this surfer
centered and whole

He stands on old lava, board in hand
times his heartbeat to the incoming wave
As foam licks his feet, he leapfrogs forward
board like a shield
lands first on the water
becomes his ship

Arms are paddles up and over
through the surge, foam, the wicked
rocks submerged under harder current
He pushes out and on, joins the loose
line of laid back loungers
tag team of water walkers

hair or not, male and female created
different but equal on aquamarine bed
He points board nose back to shore
matches paddle speed to incoming wave
springs up to slice the belly of the rising water
until it folds him over and under

spits him out to go again